Showing posts with label windows. Show all posts
Showing posts with label windows. Show all posts

Monday, April 9, 2012

Cleaning That Prevents Allergies

I have suffered from allergies all my life.  If there's one thing I've gotten pretty good at, it's removing allergens from my living space.  Even with a indoor/outdoor cat (short-haired), I've managed to eliminate most of the dust and dirt that aggravates my allergies.  I don't think it's fair that I have to dust since I am an allergy sufferer, but I manage to pull it off on a consistent basis.


You don't want the dust to have a chance to really build up.  Cleaning is so much faster if done regularly.  So here are the ways I clean and some homemade products to try as well.  One thing I can't stand when I'm asked to go in and clean someone's home is to find five-million, half-filled bottles of cleaning products under every bathroom and kitchen sink!  With some basic products like rubbing alcohol and ammonia and a few spray bottles you don't have to resort to store-bought products that end up in landfills and polluting the ground.  And you save money :)

Floors

Move all furniture to one side of the room and work on the empty side.  I like to use the round disks that go under heavy furniture and make moving large pieces of furniture a piece of cake.  I would suggest having someone else help to move heavy pieces--just in case.
Vacuum or sweep and mop before dusting.
No-wax linoleum floors (most modern flooring) can simply be cleaned with 1 tablespoon white vinegar to one gallon of warm water.
Clean in one direction (with grain if wood floors, mop should be damp not wet).  Start farthest from the entry ways and work toward them so that you don't track dirt over clean areas.  I like to wear clean white cotton socks in case I do have to walk back over--it doesn't leave tracks.
I use the ceiling fans, open windows and run floor fans to dry the floors quickly (wood-look linoleum) before a kid can walk on it.
Do the other side of the room when the floors are dry.
This is a good time to wash small rugs according to manufacturers directions.

Dusting

When dusting wood furniture, pull out the drawers and vacuum the casings with a crevice tool.
Always apply dusting spray on the cloth--not on the furniture, etc.
Use lemon oil for light-colored furniture, a dark oil for dark furniture, and a red oil for cherry, mahogany, and other red-colored woods.  As someone who likes to reclaim old furniture, I am a huge fan of these oils and they really last a long time.  I have thought some pieces of furniture beyond repair.  I used the correct-colored oil on a buffet and china cabinet and now they look as good as an exact duplicate set I found in a magazine article.  I was going to paint them but now I wouldn't dare!
If wood needs a good cleaning (for instance spray polishes have been used on good wood), mix 2 tablespoons of linseed oil, 2 tablespoons turpentine, and 1 quart of boiling water.  (Be sure there is proper ventilation).  Mix the linseed oil and turpentine together in a small container, then add the boiling water.  Make sure the container is disposable.  Wear protective rubber gloves and dip a cloth in the cleaner and wring out well.  Wash one surface and wipe dry.  Do not try to do the whole piece of furniture at one time.  When the solution cools off, the oil and turpentine will separate from the water.  Throw it out and make a new batch; do not try to reheat it.
Lampshades can be dusted with a vacuum using the upholstery attachment or a masking tape lint roller.
Place a pillow case over each blade of the ceiling fan to wipe dust clean.  If you do this regularly, it won't be gross at all.  Shake pillow case outside and throw in the washer.
Use a Swiffer to clean blinds, (it's really worth the money).  Close blinds down and wipe them in a downward motion (not side to side).  Do this before you clean the floors, and move furniture away from the blinds before dusting.
Book cases can be dusted weekly with a Swiffer.  A couple of times a year, clean shelf by shelf (top to bottom) by removing books and wiping each with a clean cloth (refold several times to reuse same cloth).  Clean the wood with the proper cleaner (follow the directions).  Wipe with the grain of the wood.  Clean any glass with glass cleaner that has been sprayed on a clean t-shirt cloth (or micro-fiber).  Never spray books or shelving directly with cleaners.  (Don't forget to clean the tops of large standing bookshelves first).
Walls can be dusted using a clean dust mop and wiping side to side from top to bottom of the wall.  Use a Swiffer duster with extension to clean corners and crown molding and the baseboards.
Use the crevice tool on the vacuum to clean edges of floors and in the corners.
Keep a sprayer filled with this mixture to clean smudges on walls and appliances:  2 T. non-sudsy ammonia, 1 tsp. liquid dish washing soap, 1 pint rubbing alcohol, and 1 gallon of water.   Just spray and wipe clean.  For flat paint use:  1 gal. hot water mixed with 1 c. ammonia, 1/2 c. white vinegar, and 1/4 c. baking soda.  Scrub, then wipe wall dry with a piece of terrycloth rag., (this is so strong it will dull glossy walls.)

Cleaning Upholstery

Remove cushions from couches and chairs and vacuum thoroughly.  Flip cushions regularly.
Vacuum all sides as well.
When cleaning with upholstery cleaner, be sure to check the label on the furniture and test a small area that is in an inconspicuous location.  A great site for home remedy cleaning upholstery and carpets is http://www.citradry.com/carpet-cleaning-san-diego-spots.html.
Wipes can be purchased to clean and protect leather furniture.  
In the spring, remove and properly store wool throws, etc.

Windows

A good basic window cleaner is 2 tablespoon rubbing alcohol to 2 quarts of water.
In cold weather, use 2 tablespoons of cornstarch to 1 quart of warm water.
Wiping materials are as important as the window cleaner.  Newspaper is best, but it makes your hand black.  The next best is old percale or cotton cloths.  NEVER USE SOFTENERS WHEN YOU WASH  AND DRY YOUR CLEANING CLOTHS (INCLUDING MICROFIBER).  Never use permanent press fabric for any kind of cleaning since the finish is not absorbent and it smears and streaks.
Wash the window from left to right on the inside and from the top to bottom on the outside, then if they are streaked, you know which side the streak is on.  Early morning is the best time to wash windows, because the streaks can be seen then.  Never wash windows in the hot sun because they dry to fast and leave streaks.
Drapes and sheers:  air-fluff in the dryer.
Vacuum each month starting with the inside, top to bottom.
Take down every 6 months and run through the no heat cycle of the dryer for 15 minutes with a damp clean towel.  The dust will cling to the towel.  Remove and hang immediately (or at least smooth them out on the bed or carpet).
Sheers can generally be cleaned at home following manufacturer's directions.

What lengths do you go to to keep allergies at a minimum?

Monday, September 12, 2011

Grateful Living Series: Dress Up M.H. Windows

So long as there are homes to which men turn At close of the day:
So long as there are homes where children are, Where women stay--
If love and loyalty and faith be found Across those sills--
A stricken nation can recover from Its gravest ills.
~Grace Noll Crowell


My window sills are the most annoying thing to me about living in a mobile home.  Apparently they put something that looks like storm windows on the INSIDE of the window.  They are so ugly!  They are such an eyesore!  About six years ago, my solution was to sew curtains that would basically hide the window frame.  I put plantation blinds up first.  I needed blinds because mobile homes are not very well insulated and in extremely hot weather, plantation blinds block a lot of heat.  They also hide the top of my ugly storm windows.  The sides are hid by my simple curtains which also double as more sun-blockage (or cold-blockage in the winter).  Here are the instructions for the curtains from Crafting Vintage Style, by Christina Strutt (ISBN 1588162419).



Materials
For the curtain:  panel of fabric measuring the width of the window plus 6 inches by the required length plus 4 inches
For the facing strip:  strip of fabric the width of fabric the width of the window by 3 inches
For the tabs:  strips of fabric measuring 12 x 6 inches
Tape measure
Scissors
Pins
Needle and matching thread
1. Fold over a 1-inch double hem along both sides of the curtain fabric and stitch.  Hem the top and bottom edges in this way.
2. Next, make the tabs.  Fold each strip of fabric in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along the raw long side.  Turn right side out and press, centering the seam on the back.
3. Zigzag-stitch one long edge of the facing strip.  Place the facing strip on top of the curtain right sides together.  Fold each tab in half widthwise with the seam sides together.  Pin one tab flush with the right and left edges.  Pin the rest of the tabs at 6-inch intervals between the curtain and the facing strip, right sides together and edges aligned.
4. Stitch along the top edge of the curtain, catching in both ends of each tab as you go, and along the short ends of the facing strip.  Turn right sides out so that the facing is on the wrong side of the curtain and press.


Living Small
Homemaking Journals
Homemaking: The Homebuilders of the World
Grateful Living: Scaling Down to A Mobile Home:
Grateful Living: Repurposed Trunk
Grateful Living: Repurposed Armoire
Grateful Living: Class Up the Mobile Home Fireplace
Grateful Living: Front Porches
Grateful Living: The !#*! M.H. Walls
Grateful Living: M.H. Spa Retreat
Grateful Living: My Collection of Reflections of Home

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